One of the most tedious and frustrating the marriage of film and the internet is scanerizzazione images. There is no escape. Anyone who works analogue and want a minimum of visibility on the web we must pass. aside too expensive hardware solutions and professional services very affordable, the only real alternative is the flatbed scanner. We are talking about the various Epson V500, V700, V750 or the CanoScan 8800F, 9950F, etc ... to mention the most popular
These scanners offer for figures between 150 and 750 euro, a good compromise between quality and price.
Kodak Olympus 35RC TriX 400 @ 400
Kodak HC-110 Dil B (1:31) 6.5 min
Colour Scan of BW negative
Go once said that when it comes to 35mm, with none of the scanner results will be exalted. With a little application you can still get good images rather than for display on the monitor. Different speech 
for medioformato, where the yield of these scanners, the best.
for medioformato, where the yield of these scanners, the best. I personally use a CanoScan 8800F
in combination with the software
of Hamrick VueScan. Scanner is not fully, but, knowing the scanning software and exploit the post in Photoshop Lightroom If you are a perfectionist, you can do the test without using the templates provided. On most of these scanners because the focus is fixed and the surface of the glass, and masks to keep the film a few millimeters to be doing it (sometimes), all slightly out of focus. If you are interested in this technique of searching the internet, there are interesting tips. Analog Photography - Italy .
or (if you work in DNG), you can do great things.  about using the scanner is not much to say except that it is important to keep it as clean as possible. A pass Swifter cloth before each scanning session does wonders. |
| rather more complex the discourse concerning the software. My personal "bible" in this regard is very useful discussion group on flickr |
Olympus 35RC Kodak Portra 160 VC (expired) Print Scan
The basic concept is to get a scan as neutral as possible, disabling all the automatic software / hardware and thus leaving the user the ability to manage every aspect of the scan. The setting of each parameter to arrive at this result is fully described in the discussion above. Read it, and let bookmarkatela yours. Another fundamental aspect is the setting of the dpi according to
real capabilities of your scanner. To do this, their own tests to avoid complications, I suggest that instead of reading any review of your scanner on the internet since it is always a given set. For example my CanoScan 8800F can read up to about 1900 dpi and 4800 declared by the manufacturer (!).
The setting of multi-exposure and the number of passes are other important parameters, which I recommend personally to decide on its own test. Different images may require different settings. Finally I add some of my personal advice: Forget scanning 35mm color negatives. I have given up, the results are really poor. I prefer me to do the whole film and prints 10x12 scanerizzare ones. All images on color film you find in my Flickr stream have been scanned so. Some detectors for the BN should just agree with the scanner. It 's the case with the Rodinal. Negatives developed with this detector often generates digital images with a grain buckshot in that I find unpleasant. At the moment my favorite is under the scanner in the HC-110 dilution B. Tenetene account when you judge your scans.
scanned in color, black and white negatives.  From what I have seen the range of shades can be obtained in this way is much better. Council to make any post in this mode and convert to monochrome at the end. I often prefer to leave the scan with the dominant film, perhaps adjusting it a bit, to make it look a nice sepia. |
| Eye scanerizzazioni white balance in color. If you decide to give it to scan negatives or color images will always remember that due to a dominant medium of film. The adjustment of white point is a required step. Do it. |
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